Monday, August 10, 2009
Why Does Our Skin Age?
EVERYONE is always curious to find that "ageless" beauty or the "fountain of youth"...I say it's more important to understand what causes our skin to form wrinkles...why does it sag...is it hereditary...can I avoid skin aging or is it inevitable...?
Clinical studies have found that there are two different types of aging:
Intrinsic Aging & Extrinsic Aging
Intrinsic aging, also known as the natural aging process, is a continuous process that normally begins in our mid-20s. Within the skin, collagen production and elastin slows. Elastin is the substance that enables skin to snap back into place. Dead skin cells do not shed as quickly and turnover of new skin cells may decrease slightly. While these changes usually begin in our 20s, the signs of intrinsic aging are typically not visible for decades.
What are these signs:
*Thin and transparent skin
*Loss of underlying fat, leading to hollowed cheeks and eye sockets as well as noticeable loss of firmness on the hands and neck
*Bones shrink away from the skin due to bone loss, which causes sagging skin
*Dry skin that may itch
*Inability to sweat sufficiently to cool the skin
*Graying hair that eventually turns white on eye brows and lashes as well as our head
*Thinning lashes & eyebrows
*Nail plate thins, the half moons disappear, and ridges develops
Genes control how quickly the normal aging process unfolds. Some notice those first gray hairs in their 20s; others do not see graying until their 40's.
A number of extrinsic, or external, factors often act together with the normal aging process to prematurely age our skin. Most premature aging is caused by sun exposure. Other external factors that prematurely age our skin are repetitive facial expressions, gravity, sleeping positions, environmental factors such as pollution, and smoking.
The Sun. Without protection from the sun’s rays, just a few minutes of exposure each day over the years can cause noticeable changes to the skin.
***Freckles, age spots, spider veins on the face, rough and leathery skin, fine wrinkles that disappear when stretched, loose skin, a blotchy complexion, actinic keratoses (thick wart-like, rough, reddish patches of skin), and skin cancer can all be traced to sun exposure.
Scientific studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. The sun also attacks our elastin. Sun-weakened skin ceases to spring back much earlier than skin protected from UV rays. Skin also becomes loose, wrinkled, and leathery much earlier with unprotected exposure to sunlight.
***The deep wrinkles, age spots, and leathery skin indicate premature aging caused by years of unprotected exposure to the sun.
Facial Expressions. If you perform facial exercises to maintain a youthful-looking appearance, it is time to stop. Repetitive facial movements actually lead to fine lines and wrinkles. Each time we use a facial muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the skin, which is why we see lines form with each facial expression. As skin ages and loses its elasticity, the skin stops springing back to its line-free state, and these grooves become permanently etched on the face as fine lines and wrinkles.
Gravity. Gravity constantly pulls on our bodies. Changes related to gravity become more pronounced as we age. In our 50s, when the skin’s elasticity declines dramatically, the effects of gravity become evident. Gravity causes the tip of the nose to droop, the ears to elongate, the eyelids to fall, jowls to form, and the upper lip to disappear while the lower lip becomes more pronounced.
Sleeping Positions. Resting your face on the pillow in the same way every night for years on end also leads to wrinkles. Called sleep lines, these wrinkles eventually become etched on the surface of the skin and no longer disappear when the head is not resting on the pillow. Women, who tend to sleep on their sides, are most likely to see these lines appear on their chin and cheeks. Men tend to notice these lines on the forehead since they usually sleep with the face pressed face down on the pillow. People who sleep on their backs do not develop these wrinkles since their skin does not lie crumpled against the pillow.
***Smoking. Cigarette smoking causes biochemical changes in our bodies that accelerate aging. Research shows that a person who smokes 10 or more cigarettes a day for a minimum of 10 years is statistically more likely to develop deeply wrinkled, leathery skin than a nonsmoker. It also has been shown that people who smoke for a number of years tend to develop an unhealthy yellowish hue to their complexion. Additionally, a study conducted in 2002 showed that facial wrinkling, while not yet visible, can be seen under a microscope in smokers as young as 20.
These signs can be greatly diminished, and in some cases avoided, by stopping smoking. Even people who have smoked for many years, or smoked heavily at a younger age, show less facial wrinkling and improved skin tone when they quit smoking.
For Healthier, Younger-Looking Skin
Prevention. While you cannot stop or even slow down the intrinsic aging process, you can prevent signs of premature aging by protecting your skin from the sun, quitting smoking, and eliminating facial exercises.
***I recommend comprehensive sun protection to prevent premature aging caused by the sun. Comprehensive sun protection includes:
*Avoiding deliberate tanning, including use of indoor tanning devices.
*Staying out of the sun between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m., when the sun’s rays are the strongest.
*Wearing protective clothing, such as a wide-brimmed hat and long sleeves, when outdoors during the day.
****Applying sunscreen year round. ****Sunscreen should be broad spectrum (offers UVA and UVB protection) and have a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15 or higher. Sunscreen should be applied 20 minutes before going outdoors to all skin that will be exposed. It should be reapplied after sweating or being in water.
Treatment. If you are bothered by visible signs of aging, a number of treatments are available. Manual Microdermabrasion, Chemical peeling, Anti-aging professional facial treatments and some topical treatments can restore skin, giving it a smoother and refreshed appearance.
Scientific research in the field of anti-aging continues to give rise to new and promising treatment options. Your Esthetician can help you sort through the numerous options, including the myriad of over-the-counter products. During a consultation, the esthetician will examine your skin, discuss your expectations, and recommend suitable treatment options.
the American Academy of Dermatology